Spaziergang zu den Nashörnern: Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary

Wer einen Spaziergang zu Ugandas einzigen Nashörnern unternehmen möchte, sollte sich nicht das Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary entgehen lassen.

On the road

Am Morgen ging die Reise dann so richtig los. Wir haben unseren Fahrer Isma kennengelernt – er arbeitet seit 16 Jahren als Guide/Fahrer – und er fuhr uns direkt mit “unserem” großen Landrover durch die ungandische Hauptstadt Kampala. Wir hatten ja zunächst überlegt, ob wir den Urlaub wieder als Selbstfahrer verbringen wollten, allerdings war es schon ziemlich entspannend, sich bei den teils abenteuerlichen Straßenverhältnissen (“African Massage”) sicher fahren zu lassen. Kampala ist dazu noch total wuselig. Ich persönlich habe keinerlei Verkehrsregeln erkennen können.

Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary

Es stand ein ziemlich langer Fahrtag an, der aber durch eine Walking Safari im “Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary” aufgelockert wurde. Mit einem Ranger konnten wir so zu den einzigen Nashörnern in ganz Uganda laufen. Die Dickerchen werden im Sanctuary gezüchtet und hoffentlich in Zukunft wieder ausgewildert. Leider wurden sämtliche Nashörner im Land in der Vergangenheit ausgerottet und auch heute gibt es noch genügend Wilderer, die scharf auf ihre Hörner sind. Wir trafen auf eine Nashorn-Mama mit ihrem Kleinen. Es ist ein ganz besonderes Erlebnis, so großen Tieren in nur ein paar Metern Entfernung gegenüber zu stehen. Wir konnten ihr Atmen hören und ich war ziemlich aufgeregt, als die Beiden aufgestanden sind. Am Sanctuary haben wir dann noch zu Mittag gegessen und ein zahmes, junges Warzenschwein gestreichelt.

Die Fahrt führte weiter durch tolle Landschaften. Zwischendurch ließen sich immer wieder Paviane blicken. Seit Südafrika habe ich ziemlichen Respekt, aber trotzdem sind sie immer wieder schön anzuschauen.

Unterkunft: Fort Murchison

Die lange Fahrt wurde mit dem Fort Murchison, unsere Unterkunft für die nächsten drei Nächte, belohnt. Die Lage mit Blick auf den Nil ist perfekt, die Zimmer groß und schön eingerichtet und von unserem Balkon hatten wir direkten Blick auf den Sonnenuntergang. Jeder Sonnenuntergang in Afrika ist ein Traum, nur einer der Gründe sich in den Kontinent zu verlieben. Das Abendessen war wieder sehr gut. Der afrikanische Tagesrhythmus hatte uns schon voll und ganz. Nach einem Absacker-Bier sind wir ins Bett. Am nächsten Tag mussten wir außerdem früh raus, die erste Safari stand an …

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